Why little girls in our family had to wear cotton pyjamas

London County Council Fire Brigade Certificate 1904My Dinas grandfather became an economic migrant to London when his colour blindness put an end to his ambition in the merchant navy. In London he joined the fire service, where his daughter spectacularly survived a fall down the pole in Borough fire station, and where he saved lives and laid down the law on the subject of nightwear for the girls in the family. He knew too much about the horror of burns and he knew that it was often the little girls that suffered – so no flouncy, silky nighties for us.

Dinas’s County Echo, wonderfully transcribed by Ann and John Hughes for the years 1894-1900 reminds us of the many tragedies in the village he had left behind.

22nd February 1894 : A sad burning fatality occurred to the infant daughter of Mr and Mrs James Evans of Brynhenllan. It appears that on Thursday Febraury 8th the mother left the house for a short while to feed the fowls but before leaving she took the precaution to put the baby in the chair which she fastened to the leg of the table. During her absence her two year old child caught hold of his father’s scarf, and this coming in contact with the fire, ignited and it is supposed the little mite in throwing the buying scarf away, set fire to the little child in the chair. Her clothes instantly took fire and the child so severely burnt that it died the following day. The little girl was but nine months old.

31st May 1894 : A little girl, aged eight years, daughter of Mr James Bowen, Butcher, Brynhanllan, narrowly escaped being burnt to death on Thurday last. It appears that Mrs Bowen had gone to Fishguard as usual to the market, leaving the children at home and that whilst one of them was in the act of putting water in the boiler, her dress caught fire. When she discovered herself on fire she ran to the garden to an elder sister who had a blanket in her hands at the time and had the presence of mind to wrap it round the buring child and thus succeeded in extinguishing the fire but not before the little girl was severely burnt  about her face and right arm.

28th December 1899 : We have this week the painful duty of recording the death of little Lizzie Reynolds, the ten-year-old daughter of Mr John Reynolds and Mrs E Reynolds, Cwmyregwlys The case is a particularly sad one. It seems that the deceased had been on the beach early on Thursday morning with her parents. The child hastened home to prepare herself to accompany her mother, as was her wont. A little later, Mr John Griffiths, while on his way home, heard faint moans coming from Mr Reynold’s house. He went inside to ascertain the cause and was horrified to see the girl (Lizzie) in a dreadful state – her clothes burnt and her body and upper part of her legs as black as charcoal from the effects of the fire……The little girl died early on Friday morning, and to say that her death cast a gloom would quite inadequately express the people’s sympathy.

An inquest was held on Saturday touching the death of the little girl. There are two theories to account for the sad incident, one being that her clothes became ignited while lifting the kettle off the fire; and the other, that they caught fire while lacing her boots preparatory to going out. Which of these two theories is the true one will remain a mystery as there was no one in the house when the accident took place.

(News items taken from THE NEWS OF DINAS 1894-1900 transcribed from THE COUNTY ECHO by Ann and John Hughes for the Dinas Historical Society 2012. This is an absolutely fascinating publication (unfortunately now sold out and out of print) that can be downloaded by clicking here countyechofinal .Contact Ann and John Hughes, phone 01348 811255, for information on their other publications.
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Did this legendary PR man for the Church in Wales really exist?

St Brynach was a sixth century monk who earned his sainthood while socialising with royalty and travelling extensively both in mainland Europe and on the route which is now the A 487 between Fishguard and Nevern.

He’s not exactly a top-ranking Saint but is still remembered on account of the seven or so Churches dedicated to him in the Pembrokeshire area, of which two are in Dinas, and the settlements he founded – all named Llanfyrnach*, after him.

The lives of the Welsh saints were not written about until 500 years after his death, but he survived in oral tradition and his doings may have been augmented in the telling.

It appears that St Brynach was Irish by birth and came to Wales as chaplain to Brychan (a confusingly similar name), conqueror of Brecon and son of an Irish king. The saint married one of his employer’s daughters and then went off (presumably without his wife and four children) to Rome where he visited the tombs of the apostles and slew a pestiferous monster. He returned via Brittany, where he broke his journey for several years before arriving back in Pembrokeshire.

Nevern CrossHis return to Wales was marked by harassment from a local lady (could it have been his aggrieved wife?) and great difficulty in finding anywhere to live. After several temporary halts, now marked by churches or place names that remind us of him, he ended up in Nevern where he could commune with the angels on the top of Carn Ingli and meet up with his contemporary, St David.  The local lord, Clechre, eventually entrusted him with the education of his sons and gave him some land where the ancient church of St Brynach still stands. This Church, with its beautiful 10th century celtic cross and its ancient avenue of yew trees, is a rewarding visit for anyone interested in the early Church in Wales.

St Brynach died on 7th April 570.

On the other hand, Brynach could have been an invention of the Church chroniclers of the 11th and 12th centuries, who were keen to find evidence to support the standing of the local church, in opposition to the political manoeuvring of the Normans.

*Welsh often makes changes known as “mutations”  to the beginning of words depending on the word that precedes it, or the role it plays in the sentence. The ‘f’ in Llanfyrnach is a mutation of the ‘B’ in Brynach.

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Spot a chough in Dinas

Chough (Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax)

The RSPB estimates that there are only 250 to 350 breeding pairs of choughs in Britain and I’d say that there’s a good chance that you’ll see some during a Tegfan holiday. With their bright red beak and matching legs, they are easily recognised, even from a distance, and memorable. They nest in crevices in the cliff face on Dinas Head and socialise on the rock. However, they feed mainly on invertebrates in the short grass and bare earth of the cliff tops – and that’s where we have seen them – on the seaward side of the path as we descended the slope from the triangulation point towards Pwllgwaelod.  Try not to disturb their foraging!

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Follow Dylan Thomas to our local

Dylan Thomas’ (1914-1953) centenary will be celebrated with many events in South Wales throughout the year.

Under_Milk_Wood_PosterThe 1973 film of Under Milk Wood, with Richard Burton, was made in Lower Fishguard.  I remember the houses round the harbour dressed with new shop names and colours for the occasion. The rights of the film have since been gifted, by the director, to the people of Wales.

LowerTownFishguard

Should you be interested in marking this significant year while staying at Tegfan, you could walk down to Pwllgwaelod and have a pint at our local ‘Old Sailors’ (or The Sailor’s Safety to give it the name Dylan Thomas would have used). It is said that Dylan Thomas visited the pub in 1951.

The Old Sailors

The Old Sailors. Photo by Bill Boaden

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Wild rabbits on Dinas Island

The private life of the rabbit by R M LockleyDid Dinas Island rabbits give birth to ‘Watership Down’? It seems likely that Ron M Lockley’s fascination with rabbits begin when he was farming on Dinas Island during the years of the second world war. His subsequent study on Skokholm and at Orielton near Pembroke was published as ‘The Private Life of the Rabbit’  and is the wonderful account that informed Richard Adams’ children’s book.

As an introduction to this 1974 edition of the book, Richard Adams wrote:

My hope is that Watership Down may play some part in leading a wider public to read Ron Lockley’s book and perhaps help a little to obtain for this exceptional work of observation and natural history the wide recognition it surely deserves. For me it is the ideal popular work of natural history – scholarly, concise, fascinating and readable.

© Copyright Ann Harrison and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence.

© Copyright Ann Harrison and licensed for reuse under a Creative Commons Licence.

If you walk along the easy path from Cwm-yr-Eglwys to Pwllgwaelod with the Island Farm on your right, you should look into the field as you approach the Old Sailor’s pub. Towards the end of the afternoon and during the early evening the grass  is alive with rabbits, scampering in and out of the brambles.

If this should inspire you to look for Lockley’s book you’ll have to hunt for a second hand copy. Sadly, ‘The Private Life of the Rabbit’ is out of print.

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Getting closer to Ireland

Our childhood summer holidays in Dinas seemed exotic to us Londoners. Of course the language was different, as was the food, the weather, the freedom we were allowed to roam, the stamps we bought for our postcards and even the money. When we went to Bwlch Mawr to buy currant buns and chocolate as ‘after swimming’ treats we often found Irish coins in the change.

Our climbs to the rocky summits of local high points always involved screwing our eyes up to see if we could see Ireland on the horizon but it wasn’t until much later that I went on a day trip to Wexford* from Fishguard. We went by catamaran from Fishguard to Rosslare, an opportunity that sadly no longer exists – I think. However, back in the pre-crash days of 2004, the Irish Academy of Engineers envisaged a 50 mile long tunnel linking the two ports. Click here to find out more.

 © Copyright David Staincliffe and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence.

© Copyright David Staincliffe and licensed for reuse under this Creative Commons Licence.

* We loved Wexford. It’s a pretty, busy little town full of historical surprises and cultural interest. The literary offer of the Wexford area includes John Banville, Eoin Colfer, Billy Roche and Colm Toibin – amazing for its small population!

Without the catamaran, your visit will have to be an overnight stay from a Tegfan holiday.

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The risky business of researching your family tree

Patricia WatkinsOur local author, Patricia Watkins, comes from a literary family, but started writing in earnest when inspired by the characters she discovered in her family tree.

Her research into the ‘Potter’s of  Haverfordwest has lead to a new career and the publication of several books set in North Pembrokeshire.

Here is an account of the life of her great-great-great- grand-father, an extended version of which was published in Pembrokeshire Life, January 2012. It offers an interesting insight into the history of our part of Pembrokeshire in the 18th century and may entice you to a further reading of Patricia’s novels.

The Life and Times of JOHN THEOPHILUS POTTER (1752-1839)

It was in about 1778 when a twenty-six-year-old actor from Dublin first arrived in Haverfordwest, deemed one of the most elegant towns in Wales at the time, all whitewashed, clinging to the steep hillside, with the graceful shingle spire of St. Mary’s Church piercing the sky at the top of High Street.

His name was John Theophilus Potter, and he had come to town with a troupe of actors to entertain the people of Haverfordwest. There was no theatre in which they could perform, so their performances would have been held in either in the Town Hall, or maybe up at the Blue Boar Inn, an area of town where many of the gentry from the surrounding countryside had their townhouses. Here, he would have entertained such people as Lord Kensington, an Edwardes, whose family seat was in Johnston, near Milford, and who owned a townhouse near St. Mary’s.

It is not known to which theatre company Theo belonged. He would not, however, have been one of those who went around the country, ranting at fairgrounds. Acting at that time, was a precarious occupation. Earlier in the century, satirist playwrights had been lampooning the government which, in retaliation, passed the Licensing Act, preventing any play from being performed in anything but a licensed theatre. Exceptions may be made by individual magistrates, who could, but frequently did not, give their permission for a performance to be held in their town. The effect on actors was disastrous, leaving many destitute, their woes increased because if they were caught without any money in their pockets, they would be charged as vagabonds and thieves, and thrown in jail. On the other hand, many of those in licensed theatres like Drury Lane, such as David Garrick and Sarah Siddons, became the celebrities of their time.

Dublin, being a highly cultural city, had several theatres, one of them being The Smock Alley Theatre, where Thomas Sheridan, Richard’s father, was actor/manager. I should like to think that Theo belonged to this company, which did have troupes that visited Wales. I have not found his name on the playlists of this particular theatre, however, although there was another actor by the name of Potter, a relative perhaps, performing there at the time. Being in the theatre in Dublin, Theo would have been acquainted with many of the famous actors of the time, all of whom commuted regularly between the London theatres and those in Dublin.

Their commitment in Haverfordwest at an end, it was time for Theo’s troupe to leave. In the meantime, however, he had fallen in love with a local young lady. Her name was Elizabeth Edwardes, and it is said that ‘he married well’.

Elizabeth’s father, Joseph Edwardes, like Lord Kensington, also came from Johnston, and he and his wife, Eleanor Morris, were married in Steynton. Records do not go back far enough to be able to prove it, but the origins of her parents and the spelling of Elizabeth’s last name, along with her highly-educated signature on her marriage entry, lead one to believe that she was almost certainly related to the Kensington family.

By all accounts Theo was a very charismatic man, humorous and witty, capable and hard-working, the latter being described as being ‘of industrial proportions’. It is obvious that he too was well-educated. (There are those of his descendants who claim he was the grandson of John Potter, the Archbishop of Canterbury. I myself, do not believe this.) Whatever the case may be, however, his admirable qualities were such that the young actor very quickly made many influential friends, something that no doubt also helped him secure Elizabeth’s hand in marriage. They were married in St. Martin’s Church in Haverfordwest – – a church described at the time as being, ‘old, ugly and wretched’ — on June 27, 1779.

Where in town the couple lived right after their marriage, is not known, but it is highly probable that they rented one of the many properties owned by the common council. If this was the case, then, apart from his rent, it would have been up to Theo to provide the current mayor with two fat chickens each year as well, and Theo, being Theo, surely would have had fun commenting that, considering the large number of properties owned by the council, the mayor must have been be inundated with fat chickens!

His acting career coming to an end now he was in Haverfordwest, Theo set about finding something on which to expend his energies, and before long opened up a printing business on High Street — the town’s first — a business that was still in existence over seventy years later, being run at that time by the widow of Theo’s son, Joseph, and at one time employing eight men at the then 46 and 47 High Street. Theo also opened a reading room — for the gentry — and a lending library. It was in Theo’s lending library that the young actor and entertainer, Thomas Dibdin spent an afternoon composing a song, which he later that evening sang for his Haverfordwest audience at a special benefit performance.

Such were Theo’s energies that he was made a burgess of the town at the age of thirty-five, and three years later was pricked for sheriff. The sheriff at that time was elected by the common council from a list of possibilities put forward by the burgesses of the town. The council would then choose their preferred individual by making a prick with a stylus next to his name.

How Theo felt about being elected sheriff we can only imagine. Apart from the demands upon his time — he was on call at any time of the day or night — there were considerable demands on his finances as well, yet, once pricked, it would not do to refuse. (One man had done so, and was fined forty shillings because of it, the money being used to refurbish the whitewash on St. Mary’s Church steeple.)

Most certainly the greatest expense he would have faced would have been the festivities surrounding the Whit Monday parade. On this day, it was the sheriff’s duty to provide, out of his own pocket, a magnificent breakfast for all the local dignitaries surrounding the council, about fifty people in all. It is told that by the time the ‘breakfast’ was over, many of the dignitaries had difficulty staying on their mounts during the parade that followed …

On the plus side, it was his privilege to select the jailer, and this was around the time that John Howard, the prison reformer, was touring the whole country, advocating changes in the way prisons were run. Many jailors were unscrupulous, demanding payment from prisoners for all their needs, often refusing to release them until they had paid off their debt to him, despite their original sentences having already been served. Howard had come to Haverfordwest on two occasions, and had certainly not found things to his liking on one of them. Maybe Theo took his complaints to heart, and tried to improve the prisoners’ lot by selecting an honest jailer. I should like to think so.

Another plus for him was that there were no elections that year, saving him from being put in the position of having contestants try to bribe or intimidate him into influencing the outcome — seemingly a common occurrence, the sheriff sometimes standing at the door to prevent the opposition from entering to cast their vote.

As sheriff, Theo would have had a number of specific duties, and no doubt one of his favourites — being still in his thirties at the time — would have been kicking off the annual Shrove Tuesday football game. In the past, the townsfolk had celebrated this day with violent and bloody cock fights and bull-baiting events, but by the time Theo became sheriff these had been replaced by the football game — being considered less violent and bloody, although one has to wonder, when shop owners around town found it necessary to barricade their storefronts ahead of time to protect themselves and their property from the wild crowd charging through town, and crashing into their windows.

That year, in 1790, at noon as usual, it would have been Theo who would have stood in St. Thomas’s square, and kicked the new football into the air. This kick would start the game. On one occasion, it is claimed, the ball had been kicked so high it had travelled all the way down Market Street, landed on St. Mary’s steeple, then bounced off, ending up in Dark Street. The game would continue — with the whole town acting as the playing field — until it was too dark for anyone to see the ball anymore. Theo, I think, could hardly wait to take part in the free for all.

Theo would also have had special duties when the assizes came around. Given his amiable and sociable nature, he would have enjoyed some of the events, for this was when balls were held at the Town Hall three nights in succession, Lord Kensington being responsible for the first, Lord Milford for the second, and the mayor for the third; and he would have surely been happy to attend all three. Probably much less to his tastes, given what would appear to have been his restless nature, would have been the onerous duty during the assizes of having to stand on the left-hand side of the judge throughout the actual court procedures, while the County Sheriff stood on the judge’s right, and perhaps most detested of all, the necessity for having to preside over the Hundred Courts, held twice during his year of office, and covering petty crime and misdemeanours.

As a burgess of the town, it would have been Theo’s obligation to take up arms in defence of the town, and he is said to have been with Lord Cawdor at the time of the surrender of Tate’s French forces in Goodwick on February 23, 1797. Theo, by this time would have been forty-five.

During these years, Theo had been busy otherwise as well, and by 1799, Elizabeth had borne him thirteen children, eleven of whom survived, her youngest, Thomas, being my ancestor. One could argue that Elizabeth could well have died in childbirth, but when she died in 1804 at the age of forty-seven, she had borne no more children in the previous five years. It is known from the letters of Lieutenant John George, son of Stephen George, proprietor of the Blue Boar Inn, and best friend of Theo’s eldest son John, that the latter suffered from eye problems.

Although little has been said about this, Theo had obviously never lost interest in the theatre, and when he discovered his son Joseph had a talent for acting, he nurtured it, and it is suggested that a play produced in Tenby in 1802, and attended by Lord Nelson and Lady Hamilton, was performed by Joseph’s theatre company, considered one of the three most important theatrical companies in Wales in the early years of the nineteenth century. Joseph’s own playhouse was opened in Aberystwyth in 1833, and he even took his company to Ireland, where, in Wexford, the people thought so highly of him, they promised to build a playhouse for him there as well. When his company finally disbanded in 1835, and Joseph was in his fifties, many of his best actors went on to form their own companies.

Three years after Elizabeth’s death, Theo married a widow by the name of Susannah Heath/Harmon in St. Mary’s Church in 1807. She came from the popular resort of Bath, where he probably met her. He was twenty years her senior, and the role of stepmother must have been very difficult for her, young Thomas being only five when his mother died, and Theo’s eldest child, John, only nine years younger than herself.

After their marriage, Theo bought a residence in Hackney, a small village at the time, but a centre for literary-, theatre- and politically-minded people. It is likely that many of Theo’s old acting acquaintances lived here too, and could well have been the reason he chose Hackney. Many of the more wealthy members of Pembrokeshire society had houses in London, including, of course, the Kensingtons, after whom Kensington is named, and where many of the streets are named after Pembrokeshire locations. Some have assumed that Theo left Haverfordwest at that time, and moved away to London. However, right up through the 1820s, whenever he subscribed to any new publication, he still gave his address as Tower Hill, Haverfordwest, so, like many of his local, wealthy contemporaries, he obviously spent part of the year in Haverfordwest, and another in London. Being ever industrious, Theo went ahead and opened a bookbinding and bookselling business in Hackney as well, Susannah still running the business until her death in 1845.

He and Susannah had seven children, and even in the 1890s members of the Haverfordwest branch of the family were still spending time in Hackney as well, even living there. One of Theo’s sons by his second marriage, Charles Potter, began Hackney’s first newspaper, The Hackney Gazette, a newspaper that remained in the Potter family until 1996, when it was taken over by one of the big newspaper conglomerates, and still exists. In their special centenary supplement, published in 1964, when Theo’s descendant, John Potter, was managing director, they pay tribute to Theo’s son Joseph, who, apart from running his theatre well into his fifties, and playing cricket for Haverfordwest, was as industrious as his father, having been sheriff three times, mayor once, and proprietor of the Pembrokeshire Herald. Joseph, alas, appears to have been too industrious for his own health, and died after a stroke, at the age of sixty-three, only seven years after his father.

The Potters went on to run newspapers all over the world. Potter’s Electric News was published in Haverfordwest between 1855 and1869, while family members published newspapers in Australia, Ireland and, as mentioned above, in Illinois, where descendants of Theo and Elizabeth’s eldest son, John, became proprietors of the Rock Island Argus, which remained in the Potter family until 1985. Interestingly, the qualities of John W Potter, who ran the Argus in the latter part of the nineteenth century are identical to those used to describe his great grandfather Theo.

Perhaps it is not surprising then that the Potters were described in 1896 as ‘a literary people’.

Theo died of old age in Hackney in 1839, at the age of eighty-seven, after a most productive life — in more ways than one — for which I am thankful, for without this other talent, I would not be here writing about him.

© 2012 Swan House Publishing Newcastle Emlyn, Carmarthenshire. 01239710632

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Bobbin Lace

The Lace MakerI recently visited the Wallace Collection in London’s Manchester Square and was struck by Caspar Netscher’s Lace Maker. The sitter for this portrait was making her lace 350 years ago in the Netherlands in the same way as Mary Worthington is today, in Dinas Cross.

You can see Mary’s work in Len Rees’ Gallery or contact her directly.

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Perished at sea

David Vaughan Clay fell overboard and was drowned at sea when his ship was off the River Plate in S America. His family’s gravestone in Ramah Churchyard, a few minutes’ walk from Tegfan, gives the bare facts.
IMG_3727

The wonderfully informative ‘Welsh Mariners’ Index‘, with its sparse tables of dates, numbers and names of ships can provide some context to this tragic death. There are nine local mariners listed with birth dates between 1813 and 1880 who share the regionally unusual surname of ‘Clay’.

  • William Clay (born 1808)
  • James Clay (born 1813) survived a shipwreck and lost everything but the clothes he was wearing
  • William Clay (born 1826) supposed drowned. His ship was last heard of 11th November 1871
  • James Owen Clay (born 1833)
  • Thomas Griffith Clay (born 1837)
  • William James Clay (born 1840) presumed drowned. His ship left Cardiff for Montreal in September 1871 and was last heard of 11th November of the same year
  • David Vaughan Clay (born 1848) drowned and remembered above
  • Peter Vaughan Clay (born 1854) supposed drowned when his ship was sunk by an enemy submarine 11th August 1917
  • William James Clay (born 1880). Did he live in Mount Pleasant, Bryn Henllan?

A hard life with so much family suffering.

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A very local author

Helen Carey books

Helen Carey is a very local author whose books have a double connection to our part of West Wales.

Her Lavender Road series is set during the second world war and centres on a (fictional) South London street. My grandfather, along with much of the Dinas diaspora ended up in South London at the beginning of the 20th century and  I grew up near the Lavender Road characters, living for many years alongside them. When you have read the first three novels in the series you can look forward to the fourth – due to be published shortly.

Helen Carey now lives in Newport, just along the coastal path from Tegfan and, unsurprisingly, our part of West Wales also features as a setting for some of her books. In an interview, published a year ago on the Romantic Novelists’ Association blog, the author explained:

Slick Deals by Helen Carey“My latest novel, SLICK DEALS, was originally inspired by a Dolphin Survey boat trip in Cardigan Bay. For some time I have wanted to set a novel in Wales and seeing an oil exploration vessel just off the beautiful Pembrokeshire coast gave me the perfect opportunity to create a romantic, exciting crime adventure. I have always liked stories about ordinary people getting caught up in big dangerous issues. When I first left university I worked as an oil trader for Shell. I now consider myself to be a conservationist.”

As well as the next book in the Lavender Road Series, Helen Carey is promising us a book on the wartime experience of an evacuee from South London to West Wales. If you feel like indulging in some romantic fiction (given today’s date) look out for these engaging reads from our local author. You might be pleasantly surprised.

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The work of J E Thomas and Son : craft in the community

If you love the Yorkshire Sculpture Park and the offer of artistic treats surprising you in the landscape, I think you’ll enjoy the challenge of finding the work of Dinas’ local blacksmiths in the village. The tennis seat (look on the Sport page for the picture) is one of my favourites but here, as promised, is a small selection within easy walking distance of Tegfan.

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Car spotting and other nerdy pursuits

Richards Bros busWith a possibly unjustified generalisation I’ll categorise people interested in the finer points of buses (or trains – planes – cars) as either geeks or nerds – probably nerds. I don’t think it is overly unkind as I’m going to admit that I spent many childhood hours watching the traffic going through Dinas Cross on the A 487 myself. I used to sit high amongst the smooth grey branches of a copper beech tree, looking down at the traffic to mark the Hillmans, the Humbers, MGs, Standards, Rovers, Austins and Morrises on a tally chart. Every now and then there must have been a bus and that blue and maroon bus would have been owned by Richard Bros.

Richards Bros. has since taken over a number of other local transport companies and is now bi-lingual. If, like me you’ve lost your fascination with cars, they’ll help you have a wonderful car-free holiday in Dinas and their Poppet Rocket will take you along the coast to the local beaches. I don’t know, however, how they’ll fulfil the promise of palm trees and tropical sunshine that they have painted onto the body work.

Brodyr Richards bus in Dinas

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